Understanding Acids Used in Skincare
Acids and skincare don’t exactly sound like a good pair. However, acids encompass some of our favorite ingredients–things like Hyaluronic Acid, Glycolic Acid, and even Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)! Let’s delve in to how we can use them.
First of all, an important note: There are two different types of acids used in skincare; exfoliating acids and fatty acids. When used properly in your skincare routine you can see the benefits in the way your skin looks and feels.
Exfoliating Acids
Exfoliating acids help skin to look its best by removing dead skin cells and revealing a fresh complexion. Below, are listed some of the most common types of acids used in skincare.
Glycolic Acid: Glycolic acid is the smallest AHA, so it’s the most effective at getting into the skin. Glycolic acid is a fantastic anti-aging agent that seems to do it all. and most highly soluble of the alpha hydroxy acids making it especially efficacious in exfoliants and chemical peels. It reduces cell adhesion in the uppermost layer of the epidermis, promoting exfoliation of dead skin and cell replacement contributing to a smoother brighter complexion. Glycolic acid comes from sugar cane.
Lactic Acid: Lactic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid manufactured by fermentation of non-GMO corn derived carbohydrates. Lactic acid is used in the formulation of cleansers, splashes, astringents, and moisturizers to enhance the appearance of dry or mature skin. Lactates are also effective humectants and buffering agents in soaps and wipes due to their excellent ability to attract and hold moisture within the skin. Lactic acid comes from milk.
Malic Acid: Malic acid is a fine white to off-white, fine granule powder. Malic acid is a member of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) group and in skin care products it is often used as an active ingredient in exfoliants and chemical peels. Malic acid comes from apples and pears.
Kojic Acid: Originally discovered in several varieties of mushrooms, kojic acid is an off-white crystalline powder. A by-product of the fermentation process of malting rice, kojic acid helps as a preservative booster and works to preserve colors in formulations. Kojic acid also helps skin tone appear more even.
Citric Acid: Naturally occurring citric acid is a member of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) group and in skin care products it is often used as an ingredient in exfoliants and chemical peels, but most often citric acid is used to adjust the pH in personal care products such as lotions, cremes, shampoos, etc. Citric acid comes from citrus fruit such as lemons and oranges.
Salicylic Acid: This beta-hydroxy acid is a powerful and effective exfoliant widely used for face peels and in products for less than perfect skin. Salicylic acid must not be used above 2% in any cosmetic formulas and is considered gentler than alpha-hydroxy acids. Salicylic acid is also used in higher concentrations as a peeling agent for treating acne, acne scars, melasma, sun damage, and age spots in dermatology clinics. It’s so effective that it’s used in wart and corn removal solutions, although it’s still safe to use in pigmentation-prone dark skin. Since it’s related to aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), it also has anti-inflammatory properties. SA is a white solid first isolated from the bark of willow trees, from which it gets its name. It also occurs as the free acid or its esters in many plant species.
Tartaric Acid: Tartaric acid is a fine, white to off-white, crystalline powder derived from grapes. Tartaric acid is a member of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) group and in skin care products it is often used as an active ingredient in exfoliants and chemical peels. Tartaric acid comes from grapes.
Humectant Acids
Hyaluronic Acid: HA is a humectant, or water-binding molecule, that's used in many skincare products to hydrate and plump the skin, and how it works is it’s a natural substance found in the skin, eyes, and joints. It's a polymer, a long chain-like molecule with many spots for other compounds to attach to. A quarter teaspoon of HA can hold up to 1.5 gallons of water. When applied to the skin, HA forms a film that slows down water evaporation and keeps the skin hydrated.
Polyglutamic acid: When used in skin care, polyglutamic acid helps draw moisture from the atmosphere into your skin. Its properties are similar to other commonly used moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin.
Fatty Acids
Fatty acids are critical building blocks in helping skin to appear hydrated, plump, and more youthful. Essential fatty acids are not produced by the body naturally so they must be eaten or applied directly to the skin. Non-essential fatty acids are produced in the body; however, they can also be found in the environment and have great benefits in skincare.
Myristic Acid: Myristic acid is a non-toxic fatty acid that occurs naturally in some foods, such as animal fats and most vegetables. Nutmeg, palm oil, and coconut oil contain relatively high levels of myristic acid. The saturated fatty acid myristic acid has 14 carbon atoms. Myristic acid is used as a cleansing, surfactant and opacifying agent in cosmetics and personal care products.
Stearic Acid: A vegetable (castor) derivative used to stiffen and stabilize lotions and cremes. Stearic acid occurs naturally in the human body and vegetable fats.
Other Acids (non-exfolliating)
Alpha Lipoic Acid: Alpha lipoic acid powder is an organosulfur compound derived from octanoic acid and is naturally made in the human body. Often referred to as the “universal antioxidant”, it rivals vitamin C and E in its antioxidant effects.
Acids when used at the right concentrations are actually some of the most beneficial ingredients available in skin care. They are the miracle tools used to fight acne, wrinkles, age spots, scarring, and uneven skin tone.
“Be your own kind of beautiful…”
Jeri